Arriving in Oaxaca

Initial thoughts and observations

I arrived in Oaxaca on the morning of Tuesday, February 25th, after a long and unexpected travel delay. Missing my check-in deadline meant being rebooked on a flight with an extra layover, adding 10 hours to my journey. The overnight stay in Mexico City airport presented challenges for sleep—there were no carpets to rest on, and the pod hotel was fully booked. When I finally landed in Oaxaca, I waited about an hour for a shuttle to my hotel, where I’ll be staying for the first two days of what will be a longer trip.

Stepping outside, the warmth was immediate. At 27 degrees Celsius with 55% humidity, the heat felt invigorating, softened by the shade of vibrantly colored buildings and trees lining the streets. Oaxaca’s atmosphere is distinct—active yet unhurried. People fill the streets, walking, sitting, and chatting. Even with the movement, there’s a quietness to the city. As I ate my first meal on a balcony, I could still hear the breeze rustling through the trees, a contrast to the energy of the streets below.

Experiencing Oaxacan food was one of the key reasons I wanted to visit, and my first meal did not disappoint. I ate at Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante, a well-known spot led by Chef Alejandro Ruiz. Located near the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, it is recognized in the Michelin Guide for its refined take on Oaxacan flavors with international influences. The rooftop dining area, the attention to detail, and the depth of flavors set a high bar for what’s to come. Beyond this meal, Oaxacan cuisine already stands out—tlayudas, memelas, mole, enmoladas, empanadas de amarillo, tetelas, and more.